Tuesday, May 31, 2016
Cyperus papyrus
Description
Long on beauty and history, papyrus has been known and used by Man for millennia. Soft green clouds of papyrus lined the Nile River during the time of the pharaohs. In the Bible the infant Moses was found among the bulrushes, as Cyperis papyrus is also called. Ancient Egyptians kept records of their pyramid building activities on papyrus sheets, from which we get the word "paper." Today papyrus is appreciated for its beauty and is often used in ornamental landscapes especially in pools, ponds and containers.
Like other sedges, the stem is triangular in cross section, and contains a white pith. Strips of this pith are soaked in water, then pounded together and dried to create paper. Like its cousin the umbrella sedge (Cyperus involucratus), the leaves of papyrus are short sheaths that wrap around only the lowest portion of each stem. The slender graceful stems arise from a network of thick woody rhizomes and grow to a height of 10 ft (3.1 m) tend to form large clumps of indeterminate width. They are topped by feathery clusters of wiry branched "spikes" that are 5-12 in (15.2-30.5 cm) in length and arranged in umbels (a spherical or flat-topped shape). A hundred or more of these multiply branched rays have their spikelets arranged to form a delicate sphere but these droop with age, as do we all. A small flower is held at the tip of each spikelet.
Location
Papyrus is native to the lakes and rivers of northern Africa, in particular, the countries of Egypt and Sudan. It is now a popular landscape plant, gracing fishponds and pools in frostfree areas around the world!
Culture
Papyrus stems grow in great masses in shallow water and wet soils. They spread quickly and extensively. They are less enthusiastic in poorer soils, and more polite about staying in bounds.
Light
Papyrus will do well in sun or partial shade.
Moisture
Likes wet boggy soil. Will grow in standing water.
Hardiness
Freezing temperatures will kill the top, but the plant will recover if the roots are mulched or are under water.
Propagation
The plant is easy to propagate; just divide the clumps. The stems tend to die out in the center of the clump to give a messy, unkempt look. Dig, divide and start new clumps to restore attractiveness.
Usage
Papyrus is a big plant and it needs space in order to be appreciated. Use this plant along the shores of lakes, ponds, and slow moving streams to create masses of hazy light green foliage. A single clump can serve as a focal point, or use in pairs to frame a scene. When used in smaller pools and fishponds, grow papyrus in containers placed underwater. This keeps it from invading other plants' territories and simplifies maintenance.
Features
Papyrus is a beautiful plant with a rich history and tradition. Where it can be grown it is both a striking accent in the environment and a great conversation piece. The Egyptian discovery of paper made from papyrus started a tradition of written records that enables us to peek at life in the ancient world. Not bad for a marsh weed!
Thursday, May 26, 2016
Beaucarnea recurvata
Botanical
name: Beaucarnea Recurvata
Plant
type: Houseplant
Sun exposure: Full
Sun, Part Sun
Ponytail Palms are a
great, long-lived indoor plant. (Despite it’s name and palm-like appearance,
it’s not a true “palm.”)
This plant has long
green leathery stems that develop as the plant ages. Indoors, they can reach up
to 3 feet high. The only thing that is difficult about this plant is adapting
to its watering needs.
Planting
Use a fast draining soil, such as cactus potting soil also A soil mix consisting of 2 parts loam to 1 part peat moss to 2 parts sand has been used successfully. To this mix, small gravel may be added to ensure good drainage
Normal room temperature is good for most of the year, but keep it cooler in the winter (50 to 55° F).
Find a location with bright light.
Care
Keep soil fairly dry. Water from spring through fall allowing soil to dry on the surface before re-watering. During the winter only water occasionally.
Fertilize in the spring and bring into brighter room for the summer months.
Use a fast draining soil, such as cactus potting soil also A soil mix consisting of 2 parts loam to 1 part peat moss to 2 parts sand has been used successfully. To this mix, small gravel may be added to ensure good drainage
Normal room temperature is good for most of the year, but keep it cooler in the winter (50 to 55° F).
Find a location with bright light.
Care
Keep soil fairly dry. Water from spring through fall allowing soil to dry on the surface before re-watering. During the winter only water occasionally.
Fertilize in the spring and bring into brighter room for the summer months.
Pony Tail
Palms are very slow growing and very drought tolerant. Plants can be
watered every three weeks during the growing season and fertilized once during
this period. During the winter months, the plants should be watered only enough
to keep the foliage from wilting (this usually equates to 1 dose of water
during the winter). Over-watering is the single most frequent cause of failure
when growing Beaucarnea. The ponytail palm is a very slow growing tree
Re-potting every other year at the most is all the Ponytail Palm needs.
Pests
Overwatering can contribute to stem rot. If you withhold watering, the plant may be able to internally cure the problem.
Spider mites occur on the leaves, but can be fixed by rubbing a cloth of soap and water on the stems.
Wit & Wisdom
Another name for Ponytail Palm is Elephant Foot Palm.
Re-potting every other year at the most is all the Ponytail Palm needs.
Pests
Overwatering can contribute to stem rot. If you withhold watering, the plant may be able to internally cure the problem.
Spider mites occur on the leaves, but can be fixed by rubbing a cloth of soap and water on the stems.
Wit & Wisdom
Another name for Ponytail Palm is Elephant Foot Palm.
Friday, May 20, 2016
Philodendron bipinnatifidum
Most philodendrons are climbers, but not this one. Tree philodendron (also
called split leaf philodendron) grows as a large semiwoody shrub with enormous
glossy leaves and a single erect unbranched stem that tends to fall over and
sprawl when the plant gets large. The robust stem bears stout aerial rootlets
between conspicuous leaf scars. The leaves are up to 3 ft (0.9 m) long, deeply
dissected into many wavy-margined lobes and held on long petioles. Older and
larger plants develop leaves that are more deeply dissected and more ruffled.
The inflorescence consists of a 1 ft (0.3 m) long purplish red spathe enclosing
an upright spadix with many tiny petalless flowers. Specimens grown indoors
rarely flower, however.
Tree philodendron can get as large as 15 ft (4.6 m) tall and 15 ft (4.6 m) wide with a stem 6 in (17.8 cm) or more in diameter. Windowleaf or ceriman (Monstera deliciosa) is superficially similar to tree philodendron, but it has actual holes (windows) in the leaves instead of just indentations and lobes.
'German Selloum' has very narrow leaf lobes, and 'Variegatum' has leaves with yellow markings. Numerous hybrids with other philodendron species have been developed as well. The old name, Philodendron selloum, is still frequently seen.
Location
Philodendron bipinnatifidum, the tree philodendron is native to the rainforests of Paraguay and southeastern Brazil.
Culture
Tree philodendron grows best in fairly moist, well drained, fertile soil. It requires little care except occasional grooming should lower leaves become discolored, and watering in times of dry weather. Take care in placing a tree philodendron, though, lest it encroach on walkways or grow too close to buildings; a small specimen will get big!
Light
Philodendrons don't like full sun. Grow tree philodendron in
dappled or partial shade. Indoors, position in bright light, but not direct
sun. Sunlight filtered through a curtain is good. Variegated cultivars need
more light.
Moisture
Not at all drought tolerant, tree philodendron should get
regular watering. Keep the soil moderately moist by watering regularly. In the
winter, keep the soil just barely moist. Tree philodendron has thinner leaves
than most species in the genus and therefore needs a little more humid
atmosphere. House plants should be misted regularly if the air is very dry.
Place an electric room humidifier near the plant in the winter.
Propagation
Philodendrons are easy to start from cuttings. To
propagate this nonclimber, take shoots from the base of the plant's stem and
root in potting medium.
Usage
Tree philodendron is a popular container plant for public buildings and offices, but not for small rooms! Use this impressive foliage plant in a large hall or a spacious room.
Features
For a tropical foliage splash, tree philodendron is a winner. It is most effective standing alone or in combination with other lush-leafed plants such as gingers and bananas. Since it prefers some shade, tree philodendron is superb for a courtyard or against a wall in a pool yard. It can be used in beds under trees to soften the stark trunks and serve as a foliar background for lower plantings. Caladiums planted in a drift in front of a tree philodendron can be quite effective. Great in containers - indoors and out!
Philodendrons have been used as house plants for centuries. There are more than 200 species and even more hybrids.
Thursday, May 19, 2016
Lawn Problems & How to Fix it
How healthy is your lawn? have you asked your self this question before ?
Even the most carpet-like lawn can develop problems. If your lawn isn’t healthy and you can’t diagnose the trouble, dig up a patch of soil and take it to a reliable nursery or the local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Here are some common situations:
Problem: Grass won’t grow under a tree.
Solution: In northern climates, consider planting shade-tolerant fine fescues. In the South, try tall fescue.
Problem: Grass won’t grow on a slope.
Solution: If the slope is hot and dry, more regular, deep watering might help. If you can’t get grass established, try laying sod or having a professional “hydroseed” — plant seeds encapsulated in a special material to keep them from drying out.
Problem: Lawn is overrun with weeds.
Solution: Apply herbicide in spring and fall. Do both because each application kills different weeds. If the problem is severe and doesn’t respond in one or two years, you may have to kill the lawn with a non-selective herbicide and then replant.
Problem: Lawn has bare patches.
Solution: Try reseeding these areas. In spring or early fall, scratch the bare patch with a ground rake and sprinkle with lawn seed. Mark off the area with stakes and strings, and water gently. Keep the area moist for the next few weeks, watering daily if necessary. If high traffic is the problem, consider creating a path or patio surface
Problem: Lawn has brown spots or weblike threads.
Solution: Fusarium patch makes 2 to 12-inch-wide brown spots or weblike threads in thatch and grass in early spring. Minimize shade and fertilization; improve drainage; apply fungicide in early fall.
Problem: Lawn is dotted with bleached or gray spots.
Solution: Dollar spot causes numerous such spots to appear. Spots may merge to make larger, straw-colored areas, while cobweb-like growths may appear with morning dew. Fertilize; apply fungicide.
Problem: Lawn is dotted with small orange pustules on blades.
Solution: Rust is the cause of these orange, smudgy spots. Fertilize grass and keep well watered. Mow frequently and remove clippings. Apply fungicide if condition persists.
Problem: Lawn has green circular patches that die off.
Solution: The patches are called fairy rings, which sometimes feature mushrooms as well. Aerate the lawn; apply fertilizer. Keep the lawn wet for three to five days.
Problem: Lawn develops large patches of brown grass in late summer.
Solution: Dig up some of the brown areas and look underneath for small grubs, the likely cause. Apply Diazinon, isofenphos, or chlorpyrifos. Apply just after eggs are laid; check with a reliable nursery or local Cooperative Extension Service for the correct time to do this.
Problem: Multiplying mushrooms
Solution: The bad news is, mushrooms are nearly impossible to get rid of. According to turf expert Bob Mugaas, “You can certainly pull them.” This won't permanently rid your lawn of mushrooms, but it can give you temporary relief. You can also make your lawn less hospitable to fungi by correcting drainage problems and eliminating decaying organic matter. Grind down stumps, rake up grass clippings, dig up buried lumber, aerate, dethatch and replace old mulch.
Problem: Seasonal swamp
Solution: Convert a low, wet area to a rain garden with water-tolerant plants.Plant it with shrubs and perennials that tolerate pooling water as well as periods of drought.The amended soil and water-loving plants capture the excess water, and it slowly percolates into the earth instead of running into the storm sewer or sitting on the surface of your lawn.
Even the most carpet-like lawn can develop problems. If your lawn isn’t healthy and you can’t diagnose the trouble, dig up a patch of soil and take it to a reliable nursery or the local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Here are some common situations:
Problem: Grass won’t grow under a tree.
Solution: In northern climates, consider planting shade-tolerant fine fescues. In the South, try tall fescue.
Problem: Grass won’t grow on a slope.
Solution: If the slope is hot and dry, more regular, deep watering might help. If you can’t get grass established, try laying sod or having a professional “hydroseed” — plant seeds encapsulated in a special material to keep them from drying out.
Problem: Lawn is overrun with weeds.
Solution: Apply herbicide in spring and fall. Do both because each application kills different weeds. If the problem is severe and doesn’t respond in one or two years, you may have to kill the lawn with a non-selective herbicide and then replant.
Problem: Lawn has bare patches.
Solution: Try reseeding these areas. In spring or early fall, scratch the bare patch with a ground rake and sprinkle with lawn seed. Mark off the area with stakes and strings, and water gently. Keep the area moist for the next few weeks, watering daily if necessary. If high traffic is the problem, consider creating a path or patio surface
Problem: Lawn has brown spots or weblike threads.
Solution: Fusarium patch makes 2 to 12-inch-wide brown spots or weblike threads in thatch and grass in early spring. Minimize shade and fertilization; improve drainage; apply fungicide in early fall.
Problem: Lawn is dotted with bleached or gray spots.
Solution: Dollar spot causes numerous such spots to appear. Spots may merge to make larger, straw-colored areas, while cobweb-like growths may appear with morning dew. Fertilize; apply fungicide.
Problem: Lawn is dotted with small orange pustules on blades.
Solution: Rust is the cause of these orange, smudgy spots. Fertilize grass and keep well watered. Mow frequently and remove clippings. Apply fungicide if condition persists.
Problem: Lawn has green circular patches that die off.
Solution: The patches are called fairy rings, which sometimes feature mushrooms as well. Aerate the lawn; apply fertilizer. Keep the lawn wet for three to five days.
Problem: Lawn develops large patches of brown grass in late summer.
Solution: Dig up some of the brown areas and look underneath for small grubs, the likely cause. Apply Diazinon, isofenphos, or chlorpyrifos. Apply just after eggs are laid; check with a reliable nursery or local Cooperative Extension Service for the correct time to do this.
Problem: Multiplying mushrooms
Solution: The bad news is, mushrooms are nearly impossible to get rid of. According to turf expert Bob Mugaas, “You can certainly pull them.” This won't permanently rid your lawn of mushrooms, but it can give you temporary relief. You can also make your lawn less hospitable to fungi by correcting drainage problems and eliminating decaying organic matter. Grind down stumps, rake up grass clippings, dig up buried lumber, aerate, dethatch and replace old mulch.
Problem: Seasonal swamp
Solution: Convert a low, wet area to a rain garden with water-tolerant plants.Plant it with shrubs and perennials that tolerate pooling water as well as periods of drought.The amended soil and water-loving plants capture the excess water, and it slowly percolates into the earth instead of running into the storm sewer or sitting on the surface of your lawn.
Tuesday, May 17, 2016
Garden Retaining Wall Ideas
A retaining wall is a specially designed structure that holds soil on one side and is free standing on the other. They help to accommodate changes in grade in a landscape with uneven topography. These walls often allow steeper cuts to a slope to yield more usable space on a cut-and-fill hillside lot. Hard working retaining walls can be key to creating a level sports lawn or driveway too.
Retaining walls are also used on level ground to raise living spaces above the surrounding ground plain. A well designed retaining wall can elevate planting areas for improved drainage while at the same time creating a seatwall. There is no end to the benefits of these heavy barriers, but they can be costly and must be strictly constructed to prevent failure.
Retaining walls are also used on level ground to raise living spaces above the surrounding ground plain. A well designed retaining wall can elevate planting areas for improved drainage while at the same time creating a seatwall. There is no end to the benefits of these heavy barriers, but they can be costly and must be strictly constructed to prevent failure.
What makes retaining walls so challenging is their strength, which is best illustrated by the incredible loads they carry, known as lateral earth pressure. This is created by more than just the weight of soil. Water behind the wall causes buildup of hydrostatic pressure which is the reason for most wall failures. Only through adequately designed drainage structures and waterproofing can the best designed wall survive over time.
Retaining walls are divided into two types divided by their height. Walls under four feet are designed and built by your contractor or per a landscape architect's drawing. Retaining walls over four feet require much larger footings due to the increased lateral earth pressure. It must be designed by an engineer who will specify the size and extent of footings and the amount of steel reinforcement required according to strict loading calculations.
Building permits often require these structural calculations due to the damage caused by retaining wall failures. This not only destroys your investment, it can cause significant damage to people and property, which puts the homeowner at serious liability. This is particularly important where slopes are unstable and the climate suffers periods of heavy rains that can lead to super saturated soils and catastrophic mudslides. California communities may require additional earthquake related design criteria.
Retaining walls can be a do-it-yourself project when constructed of wood. These short timber walls are an affordable solution to erosion and runoff control. Concrete block retaining wall systems are growing in popularity due to their improved aesthetics and single wall construction that requires less surface area to achieve optimum strength. Dry stone walls are a regional art form and those from colonial times can still be functional today.
The time tested veneer wall is the landscape architect's choice for high end landscaping. With its functional concrete masonry unit (CMU) core, there is no end to the options for swanky stone or brick veneer. This choice offers the designer unlimited options for making each retaining wall unique to a homesite and allowing it to lend style to outdoor living spaces.
Always remember that however beautiful these walls may ultimately be, they are a powerful structure that must function as designed. This can only happen when they are composed of the proper materials and constructed by quality contractors. Get these things right and you’ll be able to count on your financial investment maintaining both beauty and integrity for many decades to come
Foxtail Palm
The Foxtail palm (scientific name Wodyetia bifurcata) is one of the most popular and widely distributed exotic flowering plants in tropical and subtropical regions today. The Wodyetia bifurcata was little known 30 years ago. It was found only in a very small part of far northeastern Australia, Queensland and considered as a very rare palm.
In 1978 Wodyeti identified and revealed the Foxtail palm to the world. The Foxtail has become one of the most popular landscape palms in the United States and Asia. Also common in Middle east and commonly found with Bismarck palms in landscaping.
The Wodyetia bifurcata is named the Foxtail palm because the palm’s plumose fronds have the appearance of a fox’s tail. The scientific name is a tribute to Wodyei, who first revealed this pretty plant to botanics and the world.
The beautiful ornamental grows moderately to a height of 25-30 feet. Under proper conditions it can grow 2-3 feet per year. The Wodyetia bifurcata is a solitary palm with a crown of eight to ten arching, plumose and fluffy fronds. It has a neat appearance and is very similar to the Royal palm, but not large. It bears white flowers at the base of the crown. The fruits are large, oval-shaped, green in the early stages and orange-red when ripe.
The Foxtail is adaptable to many environments. The beautiful tropical plant is moderately salt resistant and drought tolerant. It grows best in full sun and requires moderate watering. The Wodyetia bifurcata is hardy to 27 F. It can get some damage, but will recover. There are no major pest problems.
The Foxtail palm can be used as a single specimen in a landscaping design or planted together with other Foxtail palms. It also can make a nice container plant for patios and decks.
How To Remove Weeds From The Lawn
In each Garden Lawns can quickly be spoiled when taken over by unruly weeds. Weed management in lawns and grassy areas can be difficult to achieve without harming the existing lawn if you don't know what you're doing. Here are some expert tips to remove those weeds and get your lawn growing strong.
· Fertilize your lawn effectively to crowd out weeds before they sprout. Follow the directions on the fertilizer package to get the right balance for your yard. Too little and your lawn will be sparse and allow weeds to thrive; too much and unwanted weeds like crabgrass will flourish.
· Water your lawn infrequently with deep soakings. Your lawn needs about one inch of water per week. Frequent light lawn watering leads to shallow roots which helps many annual weeds germinate.
· Get a dandelion removal tool to ensure that you get the entire root out of the ground. Once you've removed the roots, reseed the holes with grass seed to prevent new weeds from taking root.
· Hand-pull weeds while they're young if your lawn is small enough. This is the most effective way to correct a weed problem before it gets out of hand.
· Use herbicides only as a last resort. If you need to use an herbicide, choose a post-emergence systemic selective version. Selective herbicides will only kill certain weeds while preserving your grass rather than killing any plant they come in contact with.
· Use a non-selective herbicide to spot-treat resistant weeds only and avoid spraying the lawn surrounding the weed as much as possible.
· Apply a pre-emergence herbicide twice a year. Pre-emergence herbicides kill certain weeds before they sprout.
· Dig out areas of your lawn that have been completely taken over by weeds and start over. Determine what factors may have caused the weed takeover to begin with such as using the wrong kind of turf grass for your region or improper irrigation, fertilization or mowing. Remove and destroy the existing weeds, work the soil, remove weed debris, add soil amendments and fertilizer and them level and firm the area. Irrigate and patch with sod, seed or plugs.
Thursday, May 12, 2016
Flowering Pot Plants
Flowering pot plants,
often called florist or gift plants , it plays an important role in the modern living .
during the cold , dark , winter months they provide a very gratifying splash of
color at a time when there are no garden flowers to cut and those available in
the florists are too expensive for many people to buy . there are , in addition
, plants that bloom in the spring and summer . it is therefore possible to
maintain in a form of color accent in the décor of a room throughout all the
seasons.
The essential
difference between house and pot plants is that the leaves of the latter fall
thus, after the flower fade , they have no decorative value . many of them are
discarded at this point but many with care and attention can be preserved to be
attractive once again the following year . although this is much more difficult
for flat-dwellers and those who have no garden, it can be achieved if storage
space is available , particularly if boxes of moderately moist peat , into
which the pots can be plunged can be provided and stored in a light , but not
sunny place.
The most crucial
period in the life of a flowering pot plant is during the days after it has
been bought . if the supplier has not kept it under house conditions or in a
green house , it is a mistake to bring the plant immediately into a warm room.
For about a week it should be kept in a cool , light place , where the
temperature is about 50F(10C) , with very little watering , although it might
be beneficial to spray it with tepid water . if it begins to wilt after this ,
when put into a warm room , it should be given a few more days under these
conditions.
Achimenes (Cupid
Bower):
It is a tuberous , summer-flowering plant . its funnel-shaped flowers , which may be white , red or violet, grow from axils of the leaves . its slender stalks require staking. It must be kept in a warm, light room, but not in direct sunshine, and watered with moderation , keeping water off its flowers and foliage. It likes , however , a moist atmosphere and does best if its pot is plunged in a second container filled with moist peat . once it has flowered , it should be allowed to dry out , its stems cut down and , if desired , the tubers removed for re-potting in spring . the latter need a temperature of 65F (18C) to start them into growth.
It is a tuberous , summer-flowering plant . its funnel-shaped flowers , which may be white , red or violet, grow from axils of the leaves . its slender stalks require staking. It must be kept in a warm, light room, but not in direct sunshine, and watered with moderation , keeping water off its flowers and foliage. It likes , however , a moist atmosphere and does best if its pot is plunged in a second container filled with moist peat . once it has flowered , it should be allowed to dry out , its stems cut down and , if desired , the tubers removed for re-potting in spring . the latter need a temperature of 65F (18C) to start them into growth.
Astilbe (spiraea):
These plants bear
large plumes of white , pink or red flowers, which rise above their light –
green foliage. They are not difficult to grow if they are placed in a room
where there is plenty of sun and are watered freely when coming into flower .
after flowering , the more hardy astilbe, such as Astilbe rosea , and the
varieties peach blossom and Queen Alexandra can be transferred to the garden
and dug up and re-potted in early spring . the more tender A.Japonica should be
plunged into the soil and brought indoors again before the frost comes.
Azalea indica :
The many varieties of
Indian azaleas are the most valuable of all flowering house plants , because
they are laden with red , pink or white blooms during the winter months . many
people find them difficult to grow in the house , but success can be attained
if they are kept in a well-lit , airy spot, out of direct sunlight . they need
to be kept fairly warm and out of draughts. It is advantageous to surround the
pot with damp peat . they require to be kept continuously moist and are best
watered by allowing the pot to stand up to the rim in water .it is also
beneficial to feed them regularly during the blooming season . if the dead
flowers are removed without any delay , the following season is lengthened.
Azalea indica can be
preserved by plunging the pot into the soil out of doors in may , after the
danger of frost has passed . here it can remain until autumn . when it is
necessary to repot , a good medium is lime-free , sterilized soil containing a
proportion of pine-needle peat .
Begonias:
Most of the hybrid begonias with their large , colorful flowers provide a splendid summer and autumn display . Christmas begonias, are winter flowering . begonias are fairly easy to grow if they kept in a room with good light , at a temperature of not lower than 55F (13C) and are watered freely when in flower . they object to gas fumes
Most of the hybrid begonias with their large , colorful flowers provide a splendid summer and autumn display . Christmas begonias, are winter flowering . begonias are fairly easy to grow if they kept in a room with good light , at a temperature of not lower than 55F (13C) and are watered freely when in flower . they object to gas fumes
Calceolaria (slipper
flower):
Grown in pots,
calceolaria usually flower in spring and summer and , after fading , are
discarded . they are dwarf plants with large clusters of red , orange or yellow
flowers , with distinctive markings and large , oval-shaped , pointed , rich
green leaves . they need cool , airy , will-lit conditions , out of direct
sunlight . A shady windowsill is ideal . they should be watered freely and fed
with liquid manure occasionally when in flower.
Areca Palm
The Areca Palm, whose scientificname is Dypsis lutescens (synonym:
Chrysalidocarpus Lutescens) to be known as one of the most beautiful palm tree from Madagascar. This
plant is also known as Butterfly Palm, Yellow Palm, Golden Cane Palm,
Madagascar palm and Areca Lutescens. It is a common ornamental in subtropical
and tropical regions around the world. Probably it is the most cultivated
nursery palm tree. However, it is endangered and very rare in its natural
habitat Madagascar.
The Areca palm is one
of the low maintenance plant and a fast grower. Anyone can grow this exotic
palm as a house plant. It brings a
tropical touch into home and purify the air. The Areca is consistently rated
among the best houseplants for removing all indoor air toxins.
The graceful Areca
Palm tends to grow in clumps. The adult plant looks like a large bush that can
reach 20 feet or more in height with a spread of 5-10 feet. As a
houseplant it is usually grown much smaller.
The Areca Palm
germinates easily and rapidly from fresh seeds and by divisions of clumps.
The adult palm has
several smooth, bamboo-like trunks that gently lean away from each other. Young
plant has reedy stems. The multi-trunked specimen plant has attractive long
gracefully arching feather-shaped fronds. The shrub-like plant bears small
yellowish white flowers in spring and summer and forms small orange-yellow
fruits.
Tuesday, May 10, 2016
Top 10 Succulent Plants for the Home
Succulents are the perfect plant for forgetful gardeners. Succulent care is easy, and succulent gardens and terrariums can brighten any indoor space.
Succulent plants are always in style. With juicy leaves, stems, or roots, succulents form a vast and diverse group of plants, offering easy-care choices for your home. Plus, they look stunning planted alone or as companions.
The color variation of succulents seems almost endless: blue-green, chartreuse, pink, red, yellow, white, burgundy, almost black, variegated, and more. The leaves may be rounded, needlelike, berrylike, ruffled, or spiky. Many have an enticing “touch-me” quality — even cacti.
Succulent Test Garden Tip: All cacti are succulents, but not all succulents are cacti.
While some types of succulents have somewhat exacting care requirements, most are easy to grow because they evolved with special water-storage tissues that allow them to survive in environments that are too dry for most other plants.
Succulents like the dry humidity and warm conditions found in most homes, and while they like direct light, they can adapt to lower light. They all prefer a fast-draining potting medium that’s not watered too often. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings.
These top 10 succulent plants for the home are easy to find and care for.
Burro’s Tail (Sedum morganianum)
Burro’s tail is shown to its best advantage planted in a hanging basket. Overlapping, gray-green or gray-blue leaves grow up to 3 feet long. A native of Mexico, it prefers medium to high light for best performance.
Succulent Growing Tip: Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings, and keep soil on the dry side during winter dormancy. Fertilize once in summer with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer. Although burro’s tail rarely blooms, pink or red flowers may appear at the end of the stems in summer.
The leaves fall off with even a light touch, so keep burro’s tail where it won’t be disturbed. If you move a houseplant outside for summer, keep it in a shaded location. Even though burro’s tail likes bright light, sudden exposure to direct sunlight may cause sunburn.
Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi)
To grow, allow the top 2 inches of soil to dry out between waterings. Keep it drier in the winter. When the plant is in bud, pay close attention, because even slight dehydration or overwatering may cause buds to drop. Provide medium to high light, and fertilize three times in summer using a 10-30-10 fertilizer to promote blooms.
To initiate flower bud formation in the fall, drop the indoor temperature to 55 degrees F. Or move your plants outdoors to a shaded spot in summer and leave them out as temperatures fall. Move them indoors before the temperature reaches 45 degrees F. To prune, pinch off stem segments where necessary to keep the plant stubby.
Crown of Thorns (Euphorbia milii)
A popular import from Madagascar, crown of thorns can bloom year-round if given enough light. Long, spoon-shape leaves appear at the ends of spiky branches, along with clusters of tiny flowers. You might not notice the flowers because they’re so small, but you will see the red, salmon, or yellow bracts that surround them.
When the plant is in bloom, allow only the top inch or so of soil to dry out between waterings. When the plant is not blooming, be sure the top half of the pot’s soil is dry before watering. Don’t let the entire pot dry out, however, or the plant will drop its leaves. If your plant dries out and loses its leaves, it will grow new ones in a few weeks after you begin watering.
Direct sun produces the best bloom, but crown of thorns adapts to medium light. Fertilize three times in summer using a bloom-booster fertilizer of 10-30-10.
All euphorbia contain a skin-irritating sap. Wash your hands thoroughly after handling.
Hens-and-Chicks (Sempervivum tectorum orEcheveria elegans)
Two succulent plants share the common name of hens-and-chicks. They’re closely related but look different. Both produce “chicks” — small, identical plants that are slightly offset from the mother (the hen).
Echeveria elegans forms flat, flowerlike rosettes with rounded edges. Sempervivum tectorum also forms in rosettes, but each leaf tends to be flatter and more pointed. The flowering patterns are different. Echeveriagrows arching, smooth, bell-shape blooms every year. Individual Sempervivum grows pink star-shape flowers on plants that die after flowering. Usually by this time the plant has produced so many offsets that the loss is not great. After all, the Latin translation of sempervivummeans “ever living.”
When grown as houseplants, the two perform the same way. Both should be allowed to dry slightly between waterings, as overwatering causes rotting. Water very little during winter dormancy.
Fertilize three times in summer with 10-10-10 balanced fertilizer. Propagate by removing offsets and potting them. Although they look tough, they can easily be scarred if water touches the foliage or if bumped.
Jade Plant (Crassula ovata)
The jade plant is an old-fashioned favorite for a reason: It’s so easy to grow! This long-lived South African native grows thick stems and thick, glossy green leaves tinged with red.
Allow the soil to dry completely between waterings. Although some gardeners water jade only when the leaves begin to pucker or lose their shine, these are signs the plant is already stressed, so it may begin to drop leaves. Jades are most commonly killed by overwatering. A plant may adopt a weeping form if chronically overwatered.
Fertilize three times in summer only with 10-10-10 fertilizer. Keep jade plants potted in terra-cotta for good air movement through the soil and to help balance a top-heavy plant. Repotting is seldom necessary because of the small root system, but if you do repot, use a mix for cactus or well-draining potting soil.
Prune jade as necessary to keep it symmetrical, so one side doesn’t cause the entire pot to topple. Simply cut off a branch or leaf, and plant it to create new plants. Rooting new plants around the base of a plant creates the look of a shrubby thicket. For an architectural look, some gardeners pinch all the leaves along the thick stems, leaving only the leaves at the top.
Medicine Plant (Aloe vera)
The healing sap of this familiar medicinal plant has been used for centuries to treat wounds and sunburn. However, the sharp “teeth” along the leaf margins can cut an unsuspecting passerby, so place it where it can’t be brushed accidentally.
Allow the soil to dry out between soakings. Don’t let the plant stand in water. Keep it in direct sunlight or the greatest amount of light possible. Fertilize three times in summer with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer; avoid fertilizing in winter. You don’t need to repot unless the roots are obviously pushing their way out of a pot. If so, use a potting mix designed for cactus.
Panda Plant (Kalanchoe tomentosa)
There are dozens of kinds of Kalanchoe plants, but the panda plant is among the most common. A native of Madagascar, panda plant is grown strictly for its foliage. (Grow K. blossfeldiana if you want flowers.) Thick green leaves are covered with soft silver hairs, giving the plant a fuzzy, blue-gray appearance. The edges of the leaves are tipped with brown or rust-color hairs.
Allow the top 2 inches of soil to dry out between waterings. During dormancy in winter, water only enough to keep the soil from drying out completely. Grow in medium to bright filtered light. Fertilize three times in summer with a 10-10-10 fertilizer.
Pincushion Cactus (Mammillaria)
Pincushions form a group of about 200 species of ball-shape cacti that are among the most common cacti grown in the home. Most hail from Mexico, where they grow in full sun. Pincushion cacti can remain small and may take the form of single balls or clumps, often flowering indoors.
Be careful: The spines look delicate but have hooked ends that are difficult to pull out of skin.
To grow a pincushion cactus, provide the highest light possible. Allow the soil to dry out almost completely between waterings, and withhold water entirely in the winter to give it a cool, dormant period needed for flowering. Fertilize three times in summer only, using a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer.
Ponytail Palm (Beaucarnea recurvata)
Ponytail palms are not palm trees at all, but their feathery mops of green leaves atop a leathery-looking trunk resemble them. The ponytail palm doesn’t look like a succulent, even though it is related to the agave plant. Its water-storage unit is the swollen, bulbous base of the trunk that gives the plant its other common name: elephant foot.
Long, sometimes curly, straplike leaves have very little surface to lose moisture, a boon in its native areas in the southwestern United States and Mexico.
This succulent is the perfect houseplant for a neglectful gardener because it doesn’t need a lot of watering. Allow the soil to dry almost completely before watering, and keep low humidity if possible. Grow it in high light and direct sun if possible, but the plant will adapt to medium light. Remembering ponytail palm’s native habitat, keep it hot or medium temperature. If it must be kept cool, water less often.
Ponytail palms grow slowly, reaching 12-20 feet indoors. Repot when the plant gets too top-heavy for its container. Fertilize only about once a year, using a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10.
Snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata)
This succulent can take a beating. Stories abound about forgotten, dead-looking snake plants coming back to life upon watering. Long, pointed leaves grow with patterned markings reminiscent of a snake. You can leave this plant in a pot for many years, allowing the rhizomes to multiply into a thick clump.
Allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Overwatering causes leaf and crown rot. It tolerates low light but performs best with medium or high light. It doesn’t need fertilizer, but if you insist you can apply 10-10-10 once a year.
Snake plant tolerates neglect but thrives on attention. Prune out any damaged leaves so the overall plant looks better.
Monday, May 9, 2016
Types of Marble Finishes
As there are many choices for Marble , there are also several finish options to best suit each design preference and décor. From the high sheen new look of polished stone to the finish of tumbled and antique stone for the illusion of aged stone; Marble has many different natural stone finishes to fit your needs.
Polished:
A glossy surface finish that brings out the full color and character of the stone. This versatile treatment is usually best for countertops, walls and floor tiles as it adds a beautiful sheen.
Honed:
Honed is semi polished or matte finish, with polishing only to a certain level, shy of generating a gloss level on the surface of the stone. Once again, different stones will carry a different level of honing based on the mineral structure. It is a good choice for flooring, stair treads, thresholds and other high traffic areas which would wear out a polished finished.
Antiqued:
Acid washed to create the tumbling effect, then brushed to "smooth" the surface. This finish gives the illusion of reclaimed material with a rich history and character. A good application of this material is granite flooring in an entryway.
Satin:
Buffing heads run over the surface to create a smooth and subtle texture, similar to a honed surface, but slightly less uniform. The end texture has a slightly weathered texture.
Flamed:
A surface treatment applied by intense heat flaming, which creates a rough surface finish. Because this stone has a rough finish to it, the flamed stone is a good choice for outdoor use-such as a patio or walkway.
Tumbled:
A slightly rough texture that is achieved by tumbling small pieces of marble, limestone, and sometimes granite to achieve an archaic/worn appearance. This process of involves acidic based chemicals at the factory level and/or the use of a tumbling machine that "antiques" the stone to give the appearance of a weathered, antique look in the stone, with softened edges.
Cross Cut & Filled:
Cross Cut - The process of cutting the initial block of stone parallel to the natural bedding plane. The effect is a mottled or cloudlike appearance.
Filled - A trade expression used to indicate the filling of natural voids in stone units with cements or synthetic resins and similar materials.
* Abbreviations that some suppliers use to describe this type of cut are CCFH
(Cross Cut Filled & Honed) and CCFP (Cross Cut Filled & Polished.)
Regular Cut & Filled:
Regular Cut (vein-cut) - The process of cutting the initial block of stone perpendicular to the natural bedding plane.
Filled - A trade expression used to indicate the filling of natural voids in stone units with cements or synthetic resins and similar materials.
*Abbreviations that some suppliers use to describe this type of cut are RCFH
(Regular Cut Filled & Honed) and RCFP (Regular Cut Filled & Polished.)
Polished:
A glossy surface finish that brings out the full color and character of the stone. This versatile treatment is usually best for countertops, walls and floor tiles as it adds a beautiful sheen.
Honed:
Honed is semi polished or matte finish, with polishing only to a certain level, shy of generating a gloss level on the surface of the stone. Once again, different stones will carry a different level of honing based on the mineral structure. It is a good choice for flooring, stair treads, thresholds and other high traffic areas which would wear out a polished finished.
Antiqued:
Acid washed to create the tumbling effect, then brushed to "smooth" the surface. This finish gives the illusion of reclaimed material with a rich history and character. A good application of this material is granite flooring in an entryway.
Satin:
Buffing heads run over the surface to create a smooth and subtle texture, similar to a honed surface, but slightly less uniform. The end texture has a slightly weathered texture.
Flamed:
A surface treatment applied by intense heat flaming, which creates a rough surface finish. Because this stone has a rough finish to it, the flamed stone is a good choice for outdoor use-such as a patio or walkway.
Tumbled:
A slightly rough texture that is achieved by tumbling small pieces of marble, limestone, and sometimes granite to achieve an archaic/worn appearance. This process of involves acidic based chemicals at the factory level and/or the use of a tumbling machine that "antiques" the stone to give the appearance of a weathered, antique look in the stone, with softened edges.
Cross Cut & Filled:
Cross Cut - The process of cutting the initial block of stone parallel to the natural bedding plane. The effect is a mottled or cloudlike appearance.
Filled - A trade expression used to indicate the filling of natural voids in stone units with cements or synthetic resins and similar materials.
* Abbreviations that some suppliers use to describe this type of cut are CCFH
(Cross Cut Filled & Honed) and CCFP (Cross Cut Filled & Polished.)
Regular Cut & Filled:
Regular Cut (vein-cut) - The process of cutting the initial block of stone perpendicular to the natural bedding plane.
Filled - A trade expression used to indicate the filling of natural voids in stone units with cements or synthetic resins and similar materials.
*Abbreviations that some suppliers use to describe this type of cut are RCFH
(Regular Cut Filled & Honed) and RCFP (Regular Cut Filled & Polished.)
Best Plants For Having Garden Hedges
One of the mostImportant elements when desiging a garden is the hedge plants , where each of us protect his own property & secure his home , in this article we will discuss which plants can be used for making hedges for any home gardens
1-Boxwood
Boxwood sets the standard for formal clipped hedges. Its ability to withstand frequent shearing and shaping into perfect geometric forms makes this evergreen a popular border plant. You can also let it grow tall to provide a screen or to create a maze. Some varieties grow to 20 feet tall.
Name: Buxus selections
2-Glossy Abelia
Butterflies love the trumpet-shape flowers that dangle from glossy abelias’ branches all summer long. This shrub naturally forms an arching mound that grows 3 – 6 feet tall, but you can shear it to create a lower hedge.
Name: Abelia x grandiflora
3-Amur Maple
4-Japanese Barberry
Barberry bears sharp spines that provide a nearly impenetrable barrier on this 3- to 6-foot-tall shrub. There’s a wealth of varieties that bear foliage in shades of chartreuse, green, burgundy, and rosy red. The leaves develop golden, orange, and red hues in fall.
Tip: In some areas, Japanese barberry is considered invasive, so check local regulations before planting.
Name: Berberis selections
5-Flowering Quince
Flowering quince is equipped with sharp spines that make it an effective barrier plant or privacy screen. The 6- to 10-foot-tall shrub lights up the early spring landscape with its scarlet, pink, or white blooms. Some varieties might rebloom in fall. The selection pictured here is ‘Toyo Nishiki’.
Name: Chaenomeles selections
6-Sawara False Cypress
Sometimes called threadleaf false cypress for its delicate-looking foliage, this slow-growing evergreen usually grows about 6 feet tall in 20 years, but eventually matures at 20 feet tall. Many cultivars with slight variations in foliage color and plant form are available.
Name: Chamaecyparis pisifera
7-Japanese Euonymus
This fast-growing evergreen shrub reaches 10 – 15 feet tall, but it’s easy to shear it back to create a lower hedge. Create more landscape kick by selecting varieties with gold-, cream-, or white-variegated foliage.
Name: Euonymus japonicus
8-Holly
If you prune them regularly, many species of holly work well as hedges. Dwarf hollies, such as dwarf yaupon holly, meserve holly, and inkberry, are the easiest types to use, as they need less pruning. Most varieties of holly bear red or orange berries, which are set off by the glossy evergreen foliage.
Name: Ilex selections
9-Juniper
Among the most versatile of evergreens, junipers range from ground-hugging creepers to mounded shrubs and upright trees. All respond well to pruning, making them useful hedges.
Name: Juniperus selections
10-Privet
Golden vicary privet, seen here, has yellow-green foliage and reaches 10 – 12 feet tall. Without shearing, it develops an attractive vaseshape. With just a little pruning, it makes a delightful, dense hedge or screen. It bears white flowers in spring, and is drought-tolerant.
11-Oleander
Oleander thrives with little care in California and the Deep South. The 12- to 15-foot-tall shrub tolerates drought, heat, wind, and air pollution. Its dark, leathery leaves form a lovely backdrop for its pink, peach, white, or red blooms.
Tip: All parts of the plant are poisonous, so avoid planting it in areas used by pets and small children.
Name: Nerium selections
12-Variegated False Holly
This plant has earned its common name its toothed, evergreen foliage closely resembles that of holly. It grows slowly to 15 feet tall but can be sheared to create a solid wall of green.
Name: Osmanthus selections
13-Japanese Pittosporum
A popular shrub in the South, Japanese pittosporum forms a dense, compact mound to 12 feet tall. Its dense growth and evergreen foliage makes it suitable for screens or informal hedges. It can be closely sheared to create formal hedges or topiary. In spring it bears white flowers with the scent of orange blossoms.
Name: Pittosporum selections
14-Scarlet Firethorn
An evergreen in mild climates but deciduous in colder regions, scarlet firethorn has stiff, thorny branches that adapt well to being trained as an espalier or as an informal hedge. It’s adorned by cheery white flowers in spring and orange-red berries in summer. It can grow 18 feet tall, depending on variety.
Name: Pyracantha selection
15-Korean Lilac
Also known as Meyer lilac, this 8-foot-tall shrub is one of the easiest lilacs to grow. It’s covered by fragrant purple flowers in May and resists powdery mildew, a common disease.
Test Garden Tip: This shrub blooms on last year’s stems, so prune it in May or early June to ensure a good floral display the next year.
Name: Syringa meyeri
16-Hybrid Yew
Adaptable to sun or shade, hybrid yew is a versatile evergreen with few pest problems as long as it has good soil drainage. Many varieties are available, with mounded to upright growth from 10 to 40 feet tall. It withstands shearing well, making it popular for formal hedges and topiary.
Name: Taxus selections
17-Arborvitae
American arborvitae is an upright evergreen with flat sprays of scalelike needles. ‘Techny’ is among the most popular varieties; it grows 10 – 15 feet tall, making it a good choice for a hedge or screen.
Name: Thuja selections
18-Canadian Hemlock
Although Canadian hemlock naturally grows 40 – 70 feet tall, it responds well to shearing as a hedge or evergreen screen. It tolerates shade, but dislikes drought, wind, or salt spray. Woolly adelgid, an insect problem, can be serious in some regions.
Tip: Control woolly adelgid by spraying the trees with horticultural oil.
Name: Tsuga canadensis
19-Arrowwood Viburnum
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)